The first seven years with a new home lawn are usually problem-free, at least when it comes to thatch build-up. But if you have been following an aggressive fertilization program with 4 or more applications of nitrogen per year, you will soon start to build a thick thatch layer. Once thatch exceeds 1/2-inch thick on lawns in the Northeastern US, all sorts of problems will become more prevalent.
Your best “preventative medicine” is core aeration: Once per year is standard, but we would recommend twice a year (spring + fall) on lawns with 1/2-inch or more of thatch. Leave the soil cores on the lawn surface to breakdown on their own. If your soil pH permits, apply a light application of lime following aeration. Overseed bare spots with a similar seed mix — the seed landing in aeration holes will grow if the season and conditions are right. Bag your clippings.
Actually, that “grass” you are seeing isn’t a grass at all, it’s a “sedge.” Yellow Nutsedge is a common weed in lawns and often arrives with topsoil that has been excavated from bottom ground (near creeks and streams) since this sedge likes moist soil conditions. If you pull one of these plants out of the ground, and roll it between your fingers, you’ll notice the base of the stem is triangular instead of being round. Its other common name “nutgrass” refers to the small nut-like bulbs that form on the tips of its root system, and the plant spreads by these nutlets and by seed. Yellow nutsedge can be controlled by hand weeding or by using a lawn herbicide specifically labeled for yellow nutsedge. It is best removed before it becomes well established, since it can be a persistent weed.
•Ensure your grass is cut short enough (but not scalped) to prevent it from “laying over” under deep snow cover. A 2 to 2-1/2 inch cutting height should be sufficient. It’s actually best to gradually lower your cutting height over the final three cuts of the year, instead of trying to do it all in one final cut. Shorter grass is less likely to suffer from snow mold disease.
•Check for any last minute leaf accumulations that may smother your grass.
•If your lawn soil test calls for lime, late Fall is considered the best time of year to make a lime application. Retest your lawn soil every three to five years for deficiencies.
•Late Fall is the time to apply “winterizer” fertilizers — these are usually high in potassium, which helps winter hardiness and disease prevention. Even though top growth of your lawn has ceased, the roots remain active to “pick up” the nutrients. If you’re applying both lime and fertilizer, it’s best to separate the applications by two weeks.
•After the final cut, service your lawnmower: Add fuel stabilizer to the gas tank and run the engine for 5 minutes to stabilize the fuel system (better yet… follow this step by draining the fuel tank and the carburetor). Perform all scheduled lawnmower maintenance such as oil change and lube, cleaning the air filter, replacing worn out or damaged parts and sharpening the blade(s). This is also a good time to install a new spark plug.
Spring and Fall are both good, but Fall is the best. We consider September to be “Lawn Month.” This is true in regards to seeding since 1) there is less weed competition in fall plantings, and 2) the young grass has two cool growing seasons before facing the heat of summer. It also applies to broadleaf weed control since weeds are starting to store reserves for winter and herbicides tend to be more effective. However, do not attempt to seed and control weeds at the same time — in most cases the herbicide will adversely affect the young grass. With Springtime plantings it is best not to apply crabgrass controls and seed a lawn — most pre-emergent chemicals also inhibit grass seed germination. Be sure to read the entire label of any herbicide you use!
Chances are you have an infestation of Sod Webworms and the birds are having a group lunch . You will also notice small round holes in the sod where they have worked their beaks into the turf. You may want to treat your lawn with an insecticide, following label directions
Golf courses use a variety of grass (bentgrass) that can withstand short mowing. Your home lawn needs to be cut at 2-1/2 to 3 inches. Remember: The longer the blade the deeper the roots. Also keep your mower blade sharp!
The first seven years with a new lawn is called the “honeymoon period”. After that, you’ll start to see problems mostly related to thatch buildup. Then “the honeymoon is over!” Try to core-aerate your lawn once or twice a year from the time it is planted — that’s good “preventive maintenance”.
Thatch is most commonly produced by heavy fertilization with nitrogen, and some naturally occurring causes. Mulching clippings is usually a good idea; just be sure to mow more often and only when the grass is dry.
Sure sounds like a problem with moles tunneling through the soil looking for food. One mole can eat 40 pounds of worms and insects per year! These raised tunnels are called “runs” and even after being packed down the “active” runs will be reopened. The active runs are where to focus your attempts at “trapping” moles with one of these three traps: the harpoon, scissor-jaw, or choker loop (check labels for safety precautions). Some experts feel trapping is the only method for effectively reducing a mole population. “Home remedy” mole control includes everything from Juicy Fruit gum to half-buried Coke bottles to chemical grub controls. A few homeowners have reported fair results from having battery-operated ultrasonic emitters buried several places around their landscapes, but overall trapping remains your most effective option.
When you install garden lighting we recommend 4 things:
1. Bury the wires at least 12-inches deep (check local building codes for requirements)
2. Put the wires in plastic conduit to protect them from sharp digging tools
3. Draw a diagram of where wires are located and file it away for future reference
4. Show contractors working on your property where these wires are located
